On Monday evening, we took out a mortgage and sat down to dinner at Michael Caines’ new restaurant and bar at The Cove in Maenporth, which opened just before the UK lockdown began in March.
There’s been a restaurant here for a long time and we’ve either stared it it from the fab beach, which is just across the road or we’ve watched it sail by the car windows as we’ve driven past, but for some reason, we’ve never crossed it’s threshold until now. Such is the pulling power of a celebrity chef.
Unlike Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen, The Cove has parking next to the door, which means that hiking boots are not obligatory and you can wear high heels. A point that was not lost on our party.
The restaurant sits slightly higher up than the beach, so you get a great view out to sea and across to St Anthony’s Head lighthouse which makes it a lovely spot to eat as the sun goes down. There’s always a lot of shipping about, so if your dinner companions prove boring, you can always fire up marinetraffic.com and identify the tankers.
We ate quite early for us (6.45pm), but the place was reasonably full and by the time we left, it was at capacity.
The menu offered a fair spread and I would say, that there would definitely be something for everyone. We all chose the six course tasting menu at £80 a head, to which we added a glass of champagne from Mr Caines’ own vineyard.
The tasting menu covered all the bases: a gallotine of quail, mushroom risotto, shellfish chowder, char-grilled fillet of Philip Warrens beef, a selection of cheeses, then a white chocolate and raspberry dessert.
This gave the kitchen a great opportunity to show their mettle. I am not much of a meat eater, but the beef disappeared as easily as the white chocolate dessert and the risotto and chowder were first rate. Top marks also go to the dessert, which was zingy and light. Cleared plates all round.
Expensive, but definitely worth it. We won’t be driving past in future.
Thank you to Visit Cornwall for their picture of Maenporth beach. I forgot to take a photo when we visited.